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MOUNT ETNA: WHERE TO WATCH THE FIREWORKS Reviewing the volcanic views of Sicily's main mountain
Sicily has a variety of interesting historical houses to rent, so finding a good villa to stay in is not difficult, even in peak months. Because the weather is normally good until mid-November, and villa companies offer much better deals outside the standard summer months, autumn is a perfect time to visit. Rental costs are the lowest on offer for a week between September and December.
Six of the best
Don Arcangelo all’Olmo, Carruba
Restored country house with stunning gardens and vistas. A setting in which one could easily slip into the life of Lampedusa’s aristocratic Leopard . Sleeps 16.
From €15,600 (020 7377 8518, www.thinksicily.com/Don-Arcangelo-all’Olmo.aspx).
Casa Scimone, Taormina
A tastefully furnished modern villa complex (below) in the centre of Taormina, with a rooftop pool and peerless views of the Naxos coast and the smoking volcano. Sleeps 10.
From €3,925 (0039 055 412058, www.villeinitalia.com).
Villa Silvia, Acireale
Coastal villa with traditional interiors, terrace and large grounds. No pool, but the villa is just a 15-minute drive from a beach near Riposte. Sleeps 6.
From €1,260 (00 39 0941 361 681, www.dicasainsicilia.com).
Badia, near Acrieale and Riposto
Enormous restored 18th-century winery and estate, with super-sized living area and pool in the cellar. Sleeps 10.
From €4,930 (020 7377 8518, www.thinksicily.com/Badia).
Villa Parmina, Taormina
Open and airy villa situated five minutes’ stroll from Taormina that enjoys both a seascape and looming views of the mountain. Sleeps 9.
From €4,465 (00 39 055 412 058, www.villeinitalia.com).
Il Palmento dei Castagni, Sant’Alfio
Elevated 500 metres up the volcanic slopes, a restored winery that retains rustic features and is just round the corner from the vineyard owned by Simply Red’s Mick Hucknall. Sleeps 8.
From €2,280 (020 7377 8518, www.thinksicily.com/Il-Palmento-dei-Castagni.aspx).
Although Catania is the closest major city to Mount Etna, the finest views are from the town of Taormina. Perched 200 metres above the Gulf of Naxos on the slopes of Monte Tauro , the old town, with its pretty piazzas, fairytale architecture and cocktail-party atmosphere, makes an elegant base from which to explore the landscape.
The most stylish viewpoints
San Domenico Palace Hotel garden
The gracious 14th-century former monastery of San Domenico (above) offers citrus-framed views of Etna from its surprisingly large gardens scented with jasmine, bougainvillea and lavender. If you decide to stay, it is worth noting that that the original monks’ quarters provide better views and a more authentic experience than rooms in the rather tired 19th-century extension.
5 Piazza San Domenico (0039 0942 613 111, www.LHW.com).
Grand Hotel Timeo terrace
En route to the Greek Roman theatre, just along the town’s main shopping street-cum-catwalk Corso Umberto , is the Grand Hotel Timeo where, from its wide terrace, visitors can sip gin-and-tonics, served by white-coated waiters, while taking in a ding-dong-hallelujah view of Europe’s largest active volcano. The hotel has long been the haunt of famous writers, artists and heads of state, who return to enjoy its belle-époque architecture and generous bar snacks, as well as its views.
59 Via Teatro Greco (00 39 0942 23801, www.grandhoteltimeo.com) .
Giardino Pubblico
Taormina’s Botanical Gardens, laid out in the late 19th century by Lady Florence Trevelyan , offer the best public panoramas in town. The three hectares of gardens are a sanctuary for a host of songbirds, and feature whimsical buildings and plenty of shady benches. The gardens are open from dawn till dusk, admission is free, and there is a cliff-edge café for refreshments close to the entrance.
Via Bagnoli Croce, off Corso Umberto.
Teatro Greco Romano di Taormina
One of the most celebrated ruins in Italy, the open-air Greek theatre is perfectly positioned, with Etna as its dramatic backdrop. Still functioning as a public arena, it is the home of the annual Taormina Film Festival and the venue for a series of classical concerts, ballets, fashion shows and even a Womad festival. Recently, reggae legend Jimmy Cliff played at the ancient theatre and was surprised by the crowd’s jubilant reaction to one of his lesser-known ballads. It was only when he turned around to see flames erupting from Etna that he realised that he had been upstaged by a volcano.
Tickets from www.taormina-arte.com and www.taorminafilmfest.com.
Hotel El Jebel roof terrace
Other than Silvio Berlusconi buying a villa on the outskirts of Taormina, the biggest event here this summer was the opening of Hotel el Jebel (right), a newly restored luxury boutique hotel in the heart of the old town. The hotel, featuring architecture best described as Catalan Gothic meets pantomime Aladdin, boasts a new restaurant by local food hero Pietro D’Agostino and a roof bar with 360-degree views of the area. The hotel’s central location – and its dramatic glass lift – make this an ideal place to view fiery Etna at night.
Hotel El Jebel, 9 Salita Ciampoli (00 39 0942 625 494 www.hoteleljebel.com)